Why should I compost?
Composting yard debris, fruit peelings, and leftover vegetable scraps from the kitchen have a variety of benefits. It is a great way to reintroduce much needed nitrogen and carbon into the soil (mixed in or as a topsoil mulch) that plants need for healthy growth. Composting also helps our environment by reducing the amount of solid waste going to our landfills and is great as an amendment to soils that are sandy or heavy with clay.
What is it?
Composting occurs when micro-organisms break down organic matter such as dead leaves, garden weeds, lawn clippings, and kitchen waste. Compost, unlike humus is not completely decomposed and should contain small pieces of recognizable matter such as twigs, bark, or leaves. These help keep the soil aerated and continue to add nutrients as they break down further.
What can I put in my compost pile?
A mix of fresh green materials and dry brown materials are needed to successfully feed the micro-organisms that are present and start the breakdown process. The green materials which include fruit peelings, lawn clippings, green weeds or garden clipping, farm animal manure, and kitchen vegetable scraps are all very rich in nitrogen, banana peels are a great source of potasium. while the dry brown materials such as dry leaves, shredded paper products, twigs and branches add a lot of carbon to the pile.
Be mindful of what types of materials you add though because some take a longer time or higher temperatures to successfully break down. Branches and twigs larger than ¼ inch should be run through a shredder or chipper first, and leaves that are waxy looking usually should be shredded as well. Manures are great as long as they come from herbivores (cows, horses, rabbit, etc) but carnivore waste should be avoided because of the possibility of carrying disease. Weeds that have a lot of seeds, diseased plants, or plants with roots infested with nematodes should be avoided because it takes a higher temperature, around 130°-140° to destroy these nuisances. Adding too much citrus or onions will drive off earth worms. And meaty, oily, or foods with a lot of fat should usually be avoided as well do to the fact it will attract animals to dig in your pile and can smell quite bad. There are also other beneficial things to add such as egg shells (make sure to wash them and crush them) which add much needed calcium for fast growing plants, and earthworms are useful towards the end of the composting stage (the pile is too warm for them in the beginning)
Building a compost pile
Buying a pre-made unit or building your own makes no difference in the outcome of your compost. Organic material is going to break down no matter what, but we do our best to create “ideal” conditions. The most important feature is the pile be a minimum of 36”x36”x36” but there are a few things to keep in mind. Do you want to screen it from the neighbors view? Is it in a protected area safe from drying winds? Can it be reached by a hose? Having it in a shady are has the benefit making it more comfortable for you while working your pile but lowers the internal temperature of the pile causing the process to take longer.
But ultimately supplying the micro-organisms food, water, and oxygen is the name of the game! Microbial activity is affected by the proportion of carbon to nitrogen. The optimum C/N ratio for composting “rapidly” is 30/1 or less, that’s 30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen, the higher the percentage the longer it takes to breakdown. Here’s a few common materials found in a compost pile and their associated C/N ratio.
To build the pile, layer equal amounts of dry brown material and fresh green material in alternating layers 3 to 4 inches in depth until the pile is about 3 feet, the finer the material is chopped the faster decomposition. Water each layer as you build your pile otherwise the moisture will never reach the center of the pile. The materials should be moist but not soggy, compost starters are helpful but not necessary because most yard and household waste naturally contains enough micro-organisms to drive the decomposition process.
Lawn clippings 20:1
Rotting manure 20:1
Kitchen scraps 15:1
Fruit wastes 35:1
Maintaining your pile
Your newly created pile is going to heat up very quickly due to the microbial activity, the pile will cool down as the oxygen level decreases and the microbes become less active which takes about 4-7 days. At this point use a shovel or pitchfork to turn your compost pile to aerate and get the cooler outer materials into the warmer center and start the heating process again. You may need to add more water if the mix appears too dry. A compost pile that is not turned will still decompose but it takes much much longer. And don’t fret when you see all the steam coming off the pile as you turn it, that’s completely normal. If the pile is turned and watered regularly you can expect it to be ready in roughly 6-7 weeks
Prepping the soil
For the greatest yield from your garden it’s a good idea to know what the nutritional needs are of the specific plants and try to plant them grouped accordingly. Soil test kits are available that can measure a number of soil variables. Once you know what your plants need, Western Farm Center carries a wide variety of bagged soils, and soil amendments that add needed nutrients and help your garden flourish. (new starts are grown in excellent soil so as a general rule try not to fertilize newly transplanted pots for approximately 6 weeks to avoid burning the roots) If adding any other amendments dig the hole out larger than needed for the size of the pot being used and mix them into some turned or fresh soil that can be into the hole.
Remove the plant from the pot.
Lightly water the plant, let it dry for an hour or so, and then gently remove the plant from the pot. You can do this by turning the pot over and gently pulling the pot up and away from the root ball. It’s not a good idea to yank a plant out of its pot by the stem. It’s OK to gently loosen or “scratch” the root base with a finger or a fork, but be careful not to cause any root damage. Cut away dead or rotted roots and gently set into place, backfill with soil or compost and press the soil down firmly around the plant.. One of the main causes of plant collapse is planting too deep.
Water thoroughly, and if necessary, add a little more soil to top it off. Adding a layer of mulch on top of the fresh soil has the benefit of protecting the soil from changes in temperature and reduce the frequency of watering by retaining moisture. As a general rule for the first 2-3 weeks transplanted starts require more water while they are establishing their new root system but it’s always a good idea to research the water needs and map out your garden accordingly. Planting something that needs constant watering right next to another plant that thrives in dry conditions is not going to work out well.
*planting certain vegetables (such as tomatoes) deeper than the original pot can help develop their root structure faster, stronger and make them more stable. Do your research before planting, it pays off.
Planting seed potatoes is a fun and cost effective way to add more fresh produce to your table. There are a variety of ways to plant them, most requiring only a small area to grow a large amount of potatoes. They are very adaptable and will most often times produce a respectable crop, even when the soil conditions and growing seasons are less than perfect. Potatoes always do best with lots of sun. They are aggressively rooting plants, and you will find that they will yield the best crop when planted in a light, loose, well-drained soil. Potatoes prefer a slightly acidic soil with a PH of 5.0 to 7.0. Always keep your potato patch weed-free for best results. Potatoes should be rotated in the garden, never being grown in the same spot until there has been a 3-4 year absence of potatoes to allow the nutrients to build back up. (planting something like our OSB-Organic Soil Booster mix and tilling it back in can accelerate the reintroduction of nutrients)
♦ Plant seed potatoes (pieces of whole potato or a small whole potato, with at least 2 eyes per piece) 0-2 weeks after last spring frost.
♦ If you are cutting up potato pieces for planting, do so a 1-2 days ahead of time. This will give them the chance to form a protective layer, both for moisture retention and rot resistance.
♦ You may start planting earlier, as soon as soil can be worked, but be aware that some crops will be ruined by a frost.
♦ Spread and mix in rotted manure or organic compost in the bottom of the trench before planting.
♦ Plant seed potatoes one foot apart in a 4-inch deep trench, eye side up.
Baby potatoes typically can be harvested 2-3 weeks after the plants have finished flowering. Gently dig around the plants to remove potatoes for fresh eating, being careful not to be too intrusive. Try to remove the biggest new potatoes and leave the smaller ones in place so they can continue to grow. Only take what you need for immediate eating. Homegrown new potatoes are a luxury and should be used the same day that they are dug. Potatoes that are going to be kept for storage should not be dug until 2-3 weeks after the foliage dies back. Carefully dig potatoes with a sturdy fork and if the weather is dry, allow the potatoes to lay in the field, unwashed, for 2-3 days. This curing step allows the skins to mature and is essential for good storage. If the weather during harvest is wet and rainy, allow the potatoes to cure in a dry protected area like a garage or covered porch.