Bird Related Non-Profits
1.) Bird Rescue of Sonoma County 707-838-2659 Swallows, Swifts, Crows, Ravens, advice only
2.) Pacific Wildlife Project 1-949-831-1178 Pelicans, sea birds “All volunteer – treats more than 2,000 animals a year. Our goal is to give back some of what we take from the environment and to respect the natural balance between all living things.” http://www.pacificwildlife.org/
3.) The Bird Rescue Center 3430 Chanate Road, Santa Rosa 707-523-2473 Wild native bird rescue and rehab. Our purpose is to assist the public in the rescue of injured, orphaned or ill birds. http://www.birdrescuecenter.org/
4.) The Kenwood Wildlife Center 171 Pythian Road, Santa Rosa 707-575-1000 Owl and bird rescue/rehab/relocation. Promotes wildlife stewardship through education, scientific investigation and rehabilitation www.wildlife-center.org
Dog and Cat Related Non-Profits
1.) Wine Country Greyhound Adoption PO Box 6266, Santa Rosa 95406 1-800-924-7397 Adoption and fostering of greyhounds. dedicated to finding caring, permanent homes for retired racing greyhounds, and to providing support and guidance for the adopted dogs and their families. We endeavor to educate the public of the plight of these wonderful dogs and demonstrate what loving companions they make. www.winecountrygreyhounds.com
2.) Big Dog Rescue Big Dog Rescue Penngrove, CA 94951 (707) 665-0332 email@example.com http://www.homelesshounds.us
3.) NorCal Golden Retriever Rescue 405 El Camino Real Suite 420 Menlo Park, CA 94025-5240 650-615-6810 http://www.golden-rescue.org
4.) Bulldog Rescue of Northern California
5.) Northern California Sled Dog Rescue PO Box 30877 Walnut Creek, CA 94598 Rescue@NorSled.org 800-471-5822
6.) Herd It Through The Grapevine (707) 583-9583 firstname.lastname@example.org http://www.hittgv.org -Herding Dog Rescue
7.) Green Dog Rescue Project 10342 Old Redwood Hwy Windsor, Ca. 95492 (707) 433-4377 email@example.com http://greendogproject.org -interesting organization, rehabilitates/adopts
8.) Canine Companions for Independence National Headquarters: 1-866-CCI-DOGS (224-3647) P.O. Box 446 Santa Rosa, CA 95402-0446 www.cci.org Cats 1.) Feline Rescue of No. Calif. Inc. P.O. Box 215, Cloverdale, CA 95425 707-494-5544 Adoption/spay/neuter strays and semi-ferals. We are a “shelter without walls” and “animal control with a heart,” operating with a tiny budget and no paid staff or administrative overhead. http://www.feline-rescue.com/
9.) Forgotten Felines 1814 Empire Industrial Ct #F, Santa Rosa 707-576-7999 www.forgottenfelines.com Spay/neuter adoption and cat colony care 3.) Little Paws Rescue (707) 318-8354 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Services: Cat Rescue and Adoptions
10.) Countryside Rescue 3410 Guerneville Road, Santa Rosa 707-542-5582 http://www.countrysiderescue.com
8.) Petaluma Animal Shelter 840 Hopper Street, Petaluma Tues – Fri 1 ~ 6pm ,Sat 12 ~ 6pm 707-778-4396 www.petalumaanimalshelter.org
11.) Healdsburg Animal Shelter 570 Westside Road, Healdsburg 707-431-3386 cat/dog rescue adoption no kill policy http://www.healdsburgshelter.org/
Wildlife and Misc
1.) Bright Haven Sebastopol. For BrightHaven’s location, please call: 707-578-4800 www.brighthaven.org – Sanctuary for Elderly/Disabled Animals Fray’s Organization?
2.) Friends of the Animals of the Redwood Empire Rohnert Park 707-538-9098 www.faireonline.org Provide programs to help pets and pet owners. FAIRE currently offers a reduced cost pet spay/neuter program to the residents of Cotati, Penngrove, Rohnert Park, and the Sebastopol area. -Already link to WFC
3.) So Co Animal Care and Control 1247 Century Court, Santa Rosa 707-565-7100 www.sonoma-county.org/shelter Domestic and livestock care and rescue. Finds homes for adoptable animals, helps owners find lost animals, pet licensing, rabies control, field services for injured, distressed and abused animals.
4.)Sonoma County Wildlife Rescue 403 Mecham Road, Petaluma 707-526-9453 www.scwilldliferescue.org Mammal and Bird Rescue Guided tours of our facilities are held on Saturdays adults $5.00 donation Kids $3.00 donation
5.) Wildlife Fawn Rescue 19201 Sonoma Hwy #105 Sonoma, CA 95452 707-931-4550 www.fawnrescue.org Deer and Fawn rehab. Answers to question when you find a fawn on their web site. All Wildlife Fawn Rescue’s fawns come to us due to human interference. Therefore, we feel a deep obligation to restore them to health and return them to their natural habitat where they belong.
6.)Jack Rabbits and Cottontails 707-869-8212
May 3rd, 11:30 – 4:30 at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds
ChickenQue is a fundraiser and open house for the Sonoma County 4-H Program. 4-H members and their families from all over the county come together to host the largest single day chicken BBQ west Of the Mississippi! They have been doing this for the last 53 years without fail. 4-H members host interactive booths featuring the many projects they are involved with as 4-H er’s. This is a great family event and an opportunity to learn about 4-H. Please come out and be part of this wonderful event and enjoy a good meal Rain or shine!
Tickets are available here at Western Farm Center or you can purchase tickets from a 4Her, or even at the 4-H Office, 133 Aviation Blvd, Santa Rosa. 4-H Office Hours: 8-11am and 1-4pm. 565-2381.
$10 per meal. Attend the event for free, tickets are for the meal. Cake slices, whole cakes and drinks also available for sale. Drive up windows also available!!!
Why should I compost?
Composting yard debris, fruit peelings, and leftover vegetable scraps from the kitchen have a variety of benefits. It is a great way to reintroduce much needed nitrogen and carbon into the soil (mixed in or as a topsoil mulch) that plants need for healthy growth. Composting also helps our environment by reducing the amount of solid waste going to our landfills and is great as an amendment to soils that are sandy or heavy with clay.
What is it?
Composting occurs when micro-organisms break down organic matter such as dead leaves, garden weeds, lawn clippings, and kitchen waste. Compost, unlike humus is not completely decomposed and should contain small pieces of recognizable matter such as twigs, bark, or leaves. These help keep the soil aerated and continue to add nutrients as they break down further.
What can I put in my compost pile?
A mix of fresh green materials and dry brown materials are needed to successfully feed the micro-organisms that are present and start the breakdown process. The green materials which include fruit peelings, lawn clippings, green weeds or garden clipping, farm animal manure, and kitchen vegetable scraps are all very rich in nitrogen, banana peels are a great source of potasium. while the dry brown materials such as dry leaves, shredded paper products, twigs and branches add a lot of carbon to the pile.
Be mindful of what types of materials you add though because some take a longer time or higher temperatures to successfully break down. Branches and twigs larger than ¼ inch should be run through a shredder or chipper first, and leaves that are waxy looking usually should be shredded as well. Manures are great as long as they come from herbivores (cows, horses, rabbit, etc) but carnivore waste should be avoided because of the possibility of carrying disease. Weeds that have a lot of seeds, diseased plants, or plants with roots infested with nematodes should be avoided because it takes a higher temperature, around 130°-140° to destroy these nuisances. Adding too much citrus or onions will drive off earth worms. And meaty, oily, or foods with a lot of fat should usually be avoided as well do to the fact it will attract animals to dig in your pile and can smell quite bad. There are also other beneficial things to add such as egg shells (make sure to wash them and crush them) which add much needed calcium for fast growing plants, and earthworms are useful towards the end of the composting stage (the pile is too warm for them in the beginning)
Building a compost pile
Buying a pre-made unit or building your own makes no difference in the outcome of your compost. Organic material is going to break down no matter what, but we do our best to create “ideal” conditions. The most important feature is the pile be a minimum of 36”x36”x36” but there are a few things to keep in mind. Do you want to screen it from the neighbors view? Is it in a protected area safe from drying winds? Can it be reached by a hose? Having it in a shady are has the benefit making it more comfortable for you while working your pile but lowers the internal temperature of the pile causing the process to take longer.
But ultimately supplying the micro-organisms food, water, and oxygen is the name of the game! Microbial activity is affected by the proportion of carbon to nitrogen. The optimum C/N ratio for composting “rapidly” is 30/1 or less, that’s 30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen, the higher the percentage the longer it takes to breakdown. Here’s a few common materials found in a compost pile and their associated C/N ratio.
To build the pile, layer equal amounts of dry brown material and fresh green material in alternating layers 3 to 4 inches in depth until the pile is about 3 feet, the finer the material is chopped the faster decomposition. Water each layer as you build your pile otherwise the moisture will never reach the center of the pile. The materials should be moist but not soggy, compost starters are helpful but not necessary because most yard and household waste naturally contains enough micro-organisms to drive the decomposition process.
Lawn clippings 20:1
Rotting manure 20:1
Kitchen scraps 15:1
Fruit wastes 35:1
Maintaining your pile
Your newly created pile is going to heat up very quickly due to the microbial activity, the pile will cool down as the oxygen level decreases and the microbes become less active which takes about 4-7 days. At this point use a shovel or pitchfork to turn your compost pile to aerate and get the cooler outer materials into the warmer center and start the heating process again. You may need to add more water if the mix appears too dry. A compost pile that is not turned will still decompose but it takes much much longer. And don’t fret when you see all the steam coming off the pile as you turn it, that’s completely normal. If the pile is turned and watered regularly you can expect it to be ready in roughly 6-7 weeks
Prepping the soil
For the greatest yield from your garden it’s a good idea to know what the nutritional needs are of the specific plants and try to plant them grouped accordingly. Soil test kits are available that can measure a number of soil variables. Once you know what your plants need, Western Farm Center carries a wide variety of bagged soils, and soil amendments that add needed nutrients and help your garden flourish. (new starts are grown in excellent soil so as a general rule try not to fertilize newly transplanted pots for approximately 6 weeks to avoid burning the roots) If adding any other amendments dig the hole out larger than needed for the size of the pot being used and mix them into some turned or fresh soil that can be into the hole.
Remove the plant from the pot.
Lightly water the plant, let it dry for an hour or so, and then gently remove the plant from the pot. You can do this by turning the pot over and gently pulling the pot up and away from the root ball. It’s not a good idea to yank a plant out of its pot by the stem. It’s OK to gently loosen or “scratch” the root base with a finger or a fork, but be careful not to cause any root damage. Cut away dead or rotted roots and gently set into place, backfill with soil or compost and press the soil down firmly around the plant.. One of the main causes of plant collapse is planting too deep.
Water thoroughly, and if necessary, add a little more soil to top it off. Adding a layer of mulch on top of the fresh soil has the benefit of protecting the soil from changes in temperature and reduce the frequency of watering by retaining moisture. As a general rule for the first 2-3 weeks transplanted starts require more water while they are establishing their new root system but it’s always a good idea to research the water needs and map out your garden accordingly. Planting something that needs constant watering right next to another plant that thrives in dry conditions is not going to work out well.
*planting certain vegetables (such as tomatoes) deeper than the original pot can help develop their root structure faster, stronger and make them more stable. Do your research before planting, it pays off.
Off-leash playing and swimming for dogs
Spring Lake Swimming Lagoon every weekend in September!
Begins at 9:30 a.m.* Saturdays & Sundays
*Saturday, Sept. 13 start time is noon.
What is Ranch Readiness Day?
Ranch Readiness Day is the only Bay Area preparedness event that benefits all animals and connects the WHOLE COMMUNITY!
Join farmers & ranchers, firefighters, veterinarians, search & rescue teams, emergency, shelter & facility managers, educators, and neighbors for an inspirational and empowering day in Sonoma County!
If your dogs are anything like mine, trips to the groomers are not high on their “to do” list. In fact, they hate it! Unlike a relaxing mani-pedi , our dogs can often find trips to the groomers to border on the traumatic.
Especially if the grooming is done at the vet. I know I certainly would have a harder time relaxing if I was getting my nails done at my doctors office. Of course we have to take care of our dogs cuticle needs one way or another, but many people do not realize that you can tend to your puppies paws all on your own.
That way you can be sure that your pooch can relax in a calm, familiar, loving atmosphere where it can feel safe.
Taking over your dog’s grooming is a great way to improve their lives, increase your connection with them and to save a few bucks while you are at it.
Here are a couple of pointers to make it a painless experience for everyone:
- The more you touch your dog’s paws the better.If they get used to it in general, it’s not so alarming when it’s showtime.
- Rest your dog (or as much of them as possible) in your lap when you’re getting ready to trim. Give them a little massage by rubbing the pads of their feet. Press on one of the toe pads to extend the claw.
- Press on one of the toe pads to extend the claw.
- Be sure to avoid the pink tissue (called the quick) within the nail, since it’s painful and startling to them when you trim too closely.
- If they really don’t enjoy it at first, you can even try trimming just one nail a day to get them used to the process slowly.
Planting seed potatoes is a fun and cost effective way to add more fresh produce to your table. There are a variety of ways to plant them, most requiring only a small area to grow a large amount of potatoes. They are very adaptable and will most often times produce a respectable crop, even when the soil conditions and growing seasons are less than perfect. Potatoes always do best with lots of sun. They are aggressively rooting plants, and you will find that they will yield the best crop when planted in a light, loose, well-drained soil. Potatoes prefer a slightly acidic soil with a PH of 5.0 to 7.0. Always keep your potato patch weed-free for best results. Potatoes should be rotated in the garden, never being grown in the same spot until there has been a 3-4 year absence of potatoes to allow the nutrients to build back up. (planting something like our OSB-Organic Soil Booster mix and tilling it back in can accelerate the reintroduction of nutrients)
♦ Plant seed potatoes (pieces of whole potato or a small whole potato, with at least 2 eyes per piece) 0-2 weeks after last spring frost.
♦ If you are cutting up potato pieces for planting, do so a 1-2 days ahead of time. This will give them the chance to form a protective layer, both for moisture retention and rot resistance.
♦ You may start planting earlier, as soon as soil can be worked, but be aware that some crops will be ruined by a frost.
♦ Spread and mix in rotted manure or organic compost in the bottom of the trench before planting.
♦ Plant seed potatoes one foot apart in a 4-inch deep trench, eye side up.
Baby potatoes typically can be harvested 2-3 weeks after the plants have finished flowering. Gently dig around the plants to remove potatoes for fresh eating, being careful not to be too intrusive. Try to remove the biggest new potatoes and leave the smaller ones in place so they can continue to grow. Only take what you need for immediate eating. Homegrown new potatoes are a luxury and should be used the same day that they are dug. Potatoes that are going to be kept for storage should not be dug until 2-3 weeks after the foliage dies back. Carefully dig potatoes with a sturdy fork and if the weather is dry, allow the potatoes to lay in the field, unwashed, for 2-3 days. This curing step allows the skins to mature and is essential for good storage. If the weather during harvest is wet and rainy, allow the potatoes to cure in a dry protected area like a garage or covered porch.
Parasite Control (external)
For those of you that are raising your flock organically or just want to stay away from some of the harsh chemicals, here are a few things that can help rid your flock of these buggers and keep them away.
Keeping a clean and dry environment for your poultry is paramount to controlling both internal and external parasites and maintaining a healthy flock. Parasites can be brought in by a number of sources, Wild birds and rodents are probably the most common so keeping on top of rodent control and minimizing access to your coop by wild birds will help. The following will help deter or eliminate external parasites on the bird and around the coop.
The two most common categories of external parasites in chickens are mites and poultry lice. Mites can be grey, dark brown or reddish in color and can often be seen along feather shafts and underneath roosts after dark. Mites are active at night when they venture out to leech blood from chickens. With its moist, rich blood supply, the vent area is a favorite feeding ground of mites. Poultry lice are fast-moving, 6 legged, flat insects with round heads that live only on the chicken and its feathers. They are beige or straw colored and are typically found at the base of feather shafts near the vent. Poultry lice feed on dead skin and other debris such as feather quill casings. Poultry lice are NOT the same as human head lice and people cannot contract lice from chickens.
• Diatomaceous Earth (DE)
Diatomaceous Earth is a natural powder made of microscopic diatoms (fossilized seashells) that can be sprinkled around the coop and nest boxes to kill external parasites like mites, lice, and pretty much any kind of creepy crawler. Be careful not to over do it and make a dusty environment because even though feed grade DE is safe to ingest it can cause irritation to their respiratory system.
• Wormwood, Peppermint, Citronella, or Lemongrass plants
These natural plants may help repel parasites. Chickens will use as hiding and will peck at leaves and brush against which will help repel external parasites.
• Linseed oil or Mineral oil, and Petroleum jelly for Scaly Leg Mites
Scaly leg mites are microscopic insects that live underneath the scales on a chicken’s lower legs and feet. They dig tiny tunnels underneath the skin, eat the tissue and deposit crud in their wake. The result is thick, scabby, crusty-looking feet and legs. The longer the mites reside under the chicken’s leg scales, the more discomfort and damage they inflict; an unchecked infestation can result in pain, deformities, lameness and loss of toes.
1) soak the feet and legs in warm water
2) dry with a towel, gently exfoliating any dead, loose scales.
3) dip feet and legs in oil which suffocates the mites.
4) wipe off oil and slather affected area with petroleum jelly.
The petroleum jelly should be reapplied several times each week until the affected areas return to normal. It may take several months for mild to moderate cases to resolve.
Parasite Control (internal)
As with external parasites, keeping a clean dry living area is just as important with internal parasites (worms).
• Diatomaceous Earth (DE)
As long as you are using feed grade DE, you can add it to their food at a 2% ratio to control internal parasites (worms)
• Raw/Unfiltered/Unpasteurized Apple Cider Vinegar
Apple Cider Vinegar acts as a tonic and aids in internal parasite elimination. Apple cider vinegar flushes out forming infections and supports immune system. It also improves the digestive health of the chickens by maintaining proper pH levels in the digestive tract, increases calcium absorption, kills germs that may cause respiratory illnesses, keeps water free of bacteria, disinfects chicken coop, and repels flies and ants. ACV can also act as an antiseptic and milk antibiotic. How much and how often varies but some people put 1 to 2 tablespoon of ACV to every gallon one week out of the month. It should be given in a plastic water container because the ACV will rust the metal and galvanized waterers.
Add 6-8 cloves of garlic in water overnight. Chickens won’t usually eat raw garlic but you can leave the chunks in the water and see if they start liking the taste, or leave crushed garlic as a free choice option. Take out any other waterers and place every few days. You can also add garlic powder to their feed daily (2% ratio). Using garlic in conjunction with other remedies might have better results. Garlic has anti-parasite and antibacterial properties.
April 18th – 1:00 pm at the SRJC Shone Farm
(7450 Steve Olson Lane – Forestville, CA 95436)
SRJC Shone Farm presents Hoofbeats in the Vineyard, an afternoon all about Horses, Wine, and Shopping!
This event is a benefit to support the horses, students and programs of Equi-Ed Therapeutic Equestrian in Santa Rosa, and Shone Farm Equestrian, the equine program of Santa Rosa Junior College. www.equi-ed.org and www.shonefarm.com/equestrian/
Event will feature horse performances, educational speakers, Shone Farm wine and olive oil tasting, and horse related vendors!
Tickets are $25.00 and are available here at Western Farm Center or online at Hoofbeats in the Vineyard Tickets